The evolution of Ukrainian bread: from Scythian grain grinders to Soviet bread factories.

For thousands of years, bread has been more than just food for Ukrainians; it has symbolized life, prosperity, and national identity. "Where there is enough bread, there is time for art," says a folk proverb, and history confirms this.

Agriculture in Ukraine emerged 7-8 thousand years ago during the Neolithic Revolution. Wheat arrived on our lands through two routes: via the Balkans and Lower Danube, as well as from Central Europe through present-day Volhynia and Galicia.

The First Farmers in Ukrainian Lands

The Trypillians, who were the first to engage in agriculture on our lands in large numbers, turned out to be remarkably progressive landowners. They employed two farming systems: crop rotation and slash-and-burn. In the slash-and-burn method, forested areas were burned, and the ash served as fertilizer. Archaeologists have found numerous grain grinders in Trypillian settlements—stone tools used for grinding grain into flour. Interestingly, modern kutia may be a direct descendant of Trypillian porridge.

From Scythians to Kievan Rus

According to Herodotus, the Scythian farmers grew wheat not only for their own consumption but also for sale. Profits from grain trade enabled the creation of the famous Scythian pectoral—a masterpiece of ancient jewelry art.

By the time of Yaroslav the Wise, the variety of grains in the fields of Kyiv region had hardly changed since the Trypillian era. Revolutionary changes began in the 10th century with the introduction of rye, which was initially considered a weed in Turkey but turned out to be extremely resilient to cold.

The Revolution in Bread Baking

The greatest revolution in the history of bread was the discovery of sourdough. It is believed that the first sourdough appeared by accident—it was dough left in an unrefined vessel. Industrial yeast was only developed in 1883 thanks to Danish microbiologist Emil Christian Hansen.

The chronicler Nestor recalls that Prince Vladimir in 996 ordered the distribution of carts filled with bread, meat, and kvass to those in need throughout Kyiv. At that time, kvass was an alcoholic beverage—hence the term "kvass" originated.

Ritual Bread

Ukrainians developed a complex system of ritual breads. During Easter, in addition to paskha, a special bread called artos was baked, adorned with images of Christ. In western Ukraine, Easter bread was referred to as "baba" or "babka"—possibly the precursor to the famous Polish and Neapolitan rum babas.

At Christmas, various regions baked their special breads: knysh in the Central Dnieper region, kerechun in Transcarpathia, and shaped gingerbreads “koniky” and “barany” in Poltava and Slobozhanshchyna. For Makovey, they prepared "shuliki"—flatbreads that floated in a sauce made of honey and poppy seeds.

The wedding karavai was baked collectively, accompanied by special rituals. In addition to the karavai, they baked "shishki"—special cookies used to invite guests to the wedding.

Tragic Pages of History

In the 20th century, Ukraine experienced three famines. The first (1921-1923) was a result of grain confiscation by the Soviet authorities. During the Holodomor of 1932-33, people tried to survive by making "bread" from acorns, potato peels, aspen and birch bark, and nettle leaves. The third famine (1946-1947) was caused by the Stalinist regime exporting Ukrainian grain to countries of the "socialist camp."

Industrialization and Revival of Traditions

In the 1930s, Soviet authorities established a system of bread factories, leading to the standardization of bread. Traditional sourdough was replaced by yeast, and coarsely ground flour was substituted with high-grade flour. Bread became more uniform but less nutritious.

Today, ancient bread-baking traditions are being revived in Ukraine. Bakers are experimenting with various types of flour—made from buckwheat, flax, oats, and spelt. The trend of sourdough bread is making a comeback. This combination of ancient traditions with modern technologies is the key to preserving the unique Ukrainian bread culture for future generations.

The history of Ukrainian bread is a chronicle of a people that has carried the love for their land and fidelity to their ancestors' traditions through the most challenging trials. From Trypillian grain grinders to modern craft bakeries, it tells an incredible saga of survival, traditions, and the indomitable spirit of the people.

Previously, "Telegraph" reported on whether the Trypillians baked bread. A historian revealed an unexpected truth about the ancient culture.